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April Jackson, wearing the Tory tunic, photographed by Alistair Guy at Three Little Birds in London -
April Jackson, wearing the Tory tunic and Mayfield chino, photographed by Alistair Guy at Three Little Birds in London
April Jackson may have traded in the sunny shores of Jamaica for the streets of London, but the Kingston native hasn’t exactly let go of her roots. Quite the opposite — Jackson, a former Miss Jamaica, opened up her own Caribbean corner in Brixton with Three Little Birds. Named after the classic Bob Marley song, the restaurant and bar is the local go-to for the culinary comforts of Jamaica. Here, wearing the Tory tunic, Jackson talks to us about the place and shares her insider’s guide to her homeland and its eats.
Three Little Birds was born out of the desire to combine my passion for food and Jamaica in order to create a career for myself whilst showcasing a different side of my country. Jamaica is often perceived as either a ghetto or a beach; restaurants have to feature corrugated iron and decor that might be described as rustic but never luxurious. At Three Little Birds I am able to challenge negative stereotypes with great customer service, flavorful meals plated with finesse and an atmosphere that is reminiscent of my childhood.
And the reason I chose that name for the restaurant…
I wanted a name that wasn’t cliché, something that would give a nod to Jamaica without being obvious. One morning I was in the shower and the name Three Little Birds popped into my brain; birds in England also means women, so I thought people who didn’t automatically make the Marley connection might think it referred to three women behind the scenes.
For a quintessential Jamaican meal here, I recommend…
Curry goat, served with rice and peas, paired with our rum punch called Three Little Birds. The meal will transport you directly to Jamaica.
The dish I love that reminds me most of home…
I change the menu every three months, but a staple dish is the Jamaican Breakfast, which consists of ackee and saltfish (our national dish), fried dumplings and hard food. Hard food is the term used to describe any starchy agricultural product, be it yam, cassava, dasheen, breadfruit or green banana. We often use yam at Three Little Birds.
Favorite childhood memory from Jamaica…
To pick only one is almost impossible, as I feel very privileged to have grown up in a country that gave me confidence, entrepreneurial skills and a solid foundation. When I was younger I loved going to Hellshire Beach with my dad and picking the biggest snapper from the ice cooler, which they would fry with festival (similar to dumplings but lighter and made with cornmeal). While we were waiting for the fish to cook Dad and I would go swimming in the sea and I would climb on his shoulders and jump off into the water. My dad worked a lot, so these moments on a Sunday were golden. We still go to Hellshire when I’m home, but I don’t jump off his shoulders anymore, as I wouldn’t want to break his back.
First-time visitors to Jamaica must…
Are you ready for my list? First-time visitors must go to Hellshire in Portmore for the best fried fish and festival, worth every calorie. You have to climb a waterfall. The most popular is Dunns River, but there are lots of others such as YS Falls — just be prepared for freezing river water. Go rafting on the Rio Grande or on the Martha Brae rivers; if you’re lucky, you’ll get to catch fresh shrimp, or janga, and someone will cook them for you on an open
flame. I always go horseback riding at Half Moon — it’s affordable but the surroundings will take your breath away on a beach ride. Whilst I would not recommend staying at a resort and never leaving, I love going to Iberostar Rose Hall Grand Resort for some pampering with their great spa services and receiving the royal treatment from the butlers. A visit to Jamaica without going to Negril cannot be complete — the seven miles of white sand is to die for and watching the sunset at Rick’s Café is gorgeous once you’ve jumped off the 35-foot tall cliff. Go to Boston Bay at the other end of the island in Portland to enjoy actual jerk chicken, pork, sausage and lobster, so that you will discover that jerk is more than a marinade — it is a process that infuses unique flavors into your food. I always get my jerk pork and sausage with roasted sweet potato and then park at the adjacent beach to eat while looking at the incredible natural beauty. Go to an all-inclusive party because it is an experience unique to Jamaica: all you can eat and all you can drink for a marginal fee. Drink water from a real coconut, where a man chops it fresh in front of you, ask for cold jelly and eat the meat on the inside, then you will understand why I do not drink coconut water unless I am home. Contrary to what you may think, spend some time in Kingston; it’s the capital for a reason and the place I call home. There’s more, but that’s for your second visit because once you feel the spirit of Jamaica you will yearn for more.
At night, I recommend…
Going to a club then finishing the night off with pan chicken at Manor Park gas station.
The best views can be found at…
If you have the time, take a trip up to the Blue Mountains, where the best coffee in the world can be found along with the best views. For a quicker solution walk up Mountain Spring — make sure you say good morning to everyone while walking because in Jamaica we have manners — and then when you get to the top, catch your breath and take in the view of Kingston.
Words and phrases to know…
Wah Gwaan — how are you? Mi nuh know — I don’t know. Everyting cris — everything is good. A suh it go — that’s life. Yea man — OK/no problem/of course. Rah(tid) — oh my gosh. Wah sweet you? — what do you find so funny? Im look good eee — him/her is attractive.
One thing you can get in Jamaica you can’t get anywhere else…
I feel that Jamaica’s most valuable asset is the people who create an indescribable vibe/energy that cannot be experienced anywhere else in the world. Jamaicans are extreme — when we’re happy we’re extremely happy, when we’re angry we’re dangerous, but when we funny it’s infectious and when you land you feel it immediately whether you like it or not.
